Showing posts with label crete. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crete. Show all posts

Monday 20 July 2015

Monday 6 July 2015

Cool Coffee




Already twenty-four hours on the sunny island of Crete in Greece. After a good sleep, it's time to sip cool frappés whilst guarding our cookies from the relentless attack of pigeons.
Yesterday was a very long day, a 3am start in Amsterdam followed by a 6.20 am, three-and-a-half hour flight from Schipol to Heraklion. Arriving at our hotel, a refreshing swim in the mosaic hotel pool and friendly greetings from the hotel staff rejuvenated our spirits.
Dinner by the sea of: tzatziki, saganaki, calamari and a Greek Salad with a finale of the local firewater - raki, accompanied by luscious watermelon.









Photos by Alison Day


© Alison Day 


Monday 4 August 2014

Scuba Chicken




Scuba Chicken by Alison Day 2014


Scuba Diving on Crete was a hit with my son both last year and this. Each time he had a great time and impressed his instructors with his natural ability for the sport. Now, he wants to train for his Padi. If he does, there is the option to do the final qualifying tests abroad—so Greece could be on the cards next summer too!

We were picked up in the cool early morning air from our hotel and driven down to Plakias on the south coast of Crete. We were with six others in the minivan and were driven by Costos—aquiline nose, curly haired Adonis, from Thessaloniki and one of the diving instructors. Along the journey, we skirted round and through Tuscan red and peach coloured, rugged hills, dotted with dark green vegetation. Through small villages with flourishing pink bougainvillea and past Kafeneons filled with old Greek men, staring and drinking coffee.

Our destination, the Calypso Diving Centre was based in a cove next to a resort called Kalypso Cretan Village. The diving instructors came from all over the globe and were led by a very fit ladyBear. Classes were in languages of what the majority understood— in this case English and German. The enthusiasm at the diving centre was infectious and the 'how to' was clearly explained. Photos were shown of the kind of marine life we could expect to see, as well as those to keep away from. For a fee, photos could be taken during your dive and copied onto a CD for posterity.

Last year I was one of the first time scuba divers too, thinking because I loved snorkelling I would like this too—I didn’t. This year, I was contented to watch my son's enjoyment and go for a swim in the amusingly—impossible to sink in—salt water pool of the resort.

I had to laugh at the wetsuit fittings of that day's scuba pupils, remembering my own—where the suits are tried on for size—dry. A nigh on impossible nail breaker, where everyone dances the fandango, as they wrestle into the suits. Later, you are introduced to the far easier option of a huge, wooden slatted tub, filled with water. Then the wetsuit slides on— in dance moves more akin to an expressive tango.

I can honestly say I only enjoyed the scuba process up until we had to get into the sea. Although the gear is lighter in water, I hated being trussed up and carrying the equivalent of concrete shoes around my middle. From my sealed in state, I felt as though I was viewing the world from inside my own private goldfish bowl. Then there was walking backwards into the sea because of the flippers— an awkward experience and why—ducks don't?

As I swam part way along the cove, with my instructor towards the open sea, I tried to distract myself from the inevitable open water dive by admiring pretty fish and avoiding the stinging tentacles of translucent, shocking pink jellyfish. It was then I decided that this experience wasn't for me. Fear and claustrophobia took over and I flatly refused to continue. My instructor sympathetically tried to appease my fears, but once my mind is made up . . .

Not to waste the diving experience completely, I floundered around the cove in a half dive-snorkel mode and followed shoals of fish.

Next year—in my wetsuit—I will be snorkelling!


©AlisonDay Designs

Saturday 19 July 2014

Cretan Magic

 

Sitting in a lovely little restaurant, in the old town of Rethymnon, under the hanging strands of flowering bougainvillea, its blooms in variegated and intense pinks.

Our waiter arrives. With our meal I order a glass of white wine—the local krasí—the waiter bobs a pony-tailed head and disappears into the restaurant. When the Cressi arrives, instead of a glass of white, it's an enormous glass of red.

'I didn't order red,' I say politely, 'I want white.'

From behind a bohemian moustache, he regards me with mild suspicion, as though I must be mistaken and then says bruesquely:

'I will change it.'

He returns a couple of minutes later with the desired glass of white Cressi - an equally enormous glass - generously filled. Depositing it demonstratively and without slowing his stride - to take the order from the next table—he places it on the table in front of me and says quite seriously:

'There—I painted it!'


 

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Friday 18 July 2014

Stone Fortune


The wind set in around the island of Crete—whipping white foam edges on the crests of waves, pulling strands of hair from hairbands and blowing serviettes and paper notes into the air.

I spear olives from the Greek salad and I amuse myself with an old childhood rhyme—a seemingly female orientated superstition—to guess the status of a potential future marital partner:


Tinker Taylor Soldier Sailor —

Rich Man — Poor Man — Beggar Man — Thief


Spoken with a lilt, as I count the olive stones neatly arranged in a row on the side of my plate—this time I have eaten five. Although not in need of a 'Rich man,' the outcome is desirable—I smile. A charming superstition, but of course not wanting to tempt fate, I generally do make sure that I eat more than one and if necessary, I will continue to eat more than six olives—silly eh? ... And luckily—I love olives.

Holidaying in Greece at the moment, I'm sure this ritual would be greeted by puzzled looks from the Greeks, who are more fatalistic by nature. Life is what it is and you take the rough with the smooth—no point complaining—get on with it, or turn it around so that it fits the way you want.

When it comes to being 'rich' there are so many other facets to it than monetary richness alone. I have only to look around me at the beautiful island on which I find myself—Crete—I feel rich and privileged to be able to be here.


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Monday 14 July 2014

Beautiful



Early morning breakfast in the hotel. . .

'How are you today?' she asks.

'Ok—half asleep,' I answer, gulping down my tea in order to reply.

'You should say—I am beautiful—then you will feel good too.

'Ok,' I mumble. Then returning the sentiment, I ask: 'So . . . how are you?'

'Beautiful!' she says, with a sly smile over her shoulder—as she goes to relieve a table of its dirty crockery—from the other side of the marble-floored, dining room.






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Sunday 13 July 2014

Rusty Inside



Today, a light lunch at the restaurant across the road from the hotel of Mezzes: calamari, Greek salad and taramasalata accompanied by crusty bread in a wicker basket. Fanta, a glass of the local Cressi and ice cold bottled water.
Our waiter—dark haired with silvered edges, deposits the bottled water with a glass on the table and says:
'Nero' (water), then he adds with a warning tone, 'but not too much, otherwise you will become rusty inside.'
Amused, I laugh and reply:
'Yes, too much and I will need some olive oil to move again.'
He pauses to take in what I said. Then comprehension slowly crosses his darkly tanned face. With a broad grin—revealing an assortment of teeth and a twinkle in his eye, he wanders off to serve another table tray on hand.







Monday 7 July 2014

Wednesday 28 April 2010

Crete the Final Frontier



I had absolutely no qualms about leaving behind what must have been one of the wettest Augusts on record for a two-week holiday on the island of Crete in Greece.

My friends Kate and Luc, who emigrated there a couple of years ago, picked me up at the hot and chaotic airport of Heraklion and we sped off in their jeep in a westerly direction to Rethymnon, situated on the northern coast of the island—cans of ice-cold beer in hand.

It’s fifteen years since my last visit to Crete, and of course during this time there has been a lot of change and restoration. As a tourist attraction Rethymnon manages to cater for the wishes of its visitors without compromising its customs and traditions. The old town of Rethymnon for example, has still retained its charm, with the local butchers, bakers, and corner shop all still in existence. This is no mean feat in a day and age of the larger supermarket and mass production breathing down their necks.

Historically, Crete and particularly Rethymnon has a broad history dating back as far as the Neolithic period. Modern day Crete only became part of Greece as late as 1913, and its inhabitants played a very important part, during the Second World War, in thwarting the Nazi occupation. Rethymnon boasts a Venetian Fortezza, which is well worth a look and gives a magnificent view of Rethymnon and the surrounding area. Within its walls it has a small church and a mosque dating back to 1645.

The south coast of the island is easily accessed by moped, motorbike or car. Driving through the mountainous regions on the way is more than impressive. The roads twist over and around dry, orangey coloured rocky hills, daubed with green vegetation, which has managed to escape the heat so far; through gorges with sheer rock faces on either side. Village signs are shot full of holes in celebration of the birth of a child or just for sport. Locals sit in the shade on wooden chairs discussing life and the universe; the men often stripped down to their vests in an attempt to keep cool. Every bend in the road with an alarming drop seems to have a shrine in memory of someone who managed to misjudge it.





From the small southern town of Plakias, one can stock up with whatever supplies are needed before heading off round the bay to a smaller cosier beach. My personal favourite is Shinaria, whose beach is small stones instead of sand. Here the water is crystal clear and good for snorkeling. A little way off from the beach is a whitewashed restaurant with heavenly food. Forget looking at the menu and just ask the owner what he’s prepared today. It’ll be chicken, lamb or rabbit in a delicious wine sauce with chips; accompanied by the local wine and a parting obligatory shot of the local firewater—raki, which will leave you giggling on the beach in the late afternoon sun.

For the more intrepid visitor to Crete, there is always the Samarian Gorge, situated near the southern-west coast of the island. It is said to be Europe’s longest gorge and two million years in the making. This impressive and strenuous hike takes the walker about six hours, starting early in the morning, and covers a distance of eleven miles. The last part of the hike is along the rocky, river bottom through the “Portes”, (the gates) of the Samarian Gorge ending at the small town of Agia Roumeli. Here it is possible to eat and swim before heading out by ferry again.

Part of the beauty of the Greek lifestyle is that the pace of life is slower, allowing one to stop and stare. Whether lying on a beach, or a rooftop gazing at the stars, or eating out at one’s leisure with friends. Cretan food has become a gateway to the East, with its inclusion of Far Eastern influences, and has led to a wider variety in the Greek kitchen. Mezzes, a traditional dish, comprises of a lot of little plates of food (like tapas), hot and cold, meat, fish and vegetarian can all be enjoyed with absolutely no rush at one sitting.

As with most places in the world there is also an expatriate presence on Crete, who meets regularly for coffee mornings and lunches in small tavernas by the sea. There is the CIC (Cretan International Community of Chania) in Chania and the Rethymnon group, whose members I found to be very open and friendly.




© Alison Day

First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006