Showing posts with label islands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label islands. Show all posts

Wednesday, 28 April 2010

Crete the Final Frontier



I had absolutely no qualms about leaving behind what must have been one of the wettest Augusts on record for a two-week holiday on the island of Crete in Greece.

My friends Kate and Luc, who emigrated there a couple of years ago, picked me up at the hot and chaotic airport of Heraklion and we sped off in their jeep in a westerly direction to Rethymnon, situated on the northern coast of the island—cans of ice-cold beer in hand.

It’s fifteen years since my last visit to Crete, and of course during this time there has been a lot of change and restoration. As a tourist attraction Rethymnon manages to cater for the wishes of its visitors without compromising its customs and traditions. The old town of Rethymnon for example, has still retained its charm, with the local butchers, bakers, and corner shop all still in existence. This is no mean feat in a day and age of the larger supermarket and mass production breathing down their necks.

Historically, Crete and particularly Rethymnon has a broad history dating back as far as the Neolithic period. Modern day Crete only became part of Greece as late as 1913, and its inhabitants played a very important part, during the Second World War, in thwarting the Nazi occupation. Rethymnon boasts a Venetian Fortezza, which is well worth a look and gives a magnificent view of Rethymnon and the surrounding area. Within its walls it has a small church and a mosque dating back to 1645.

The south coast of the island is easily accessed by moped, motorbike or car. Driving through the mountainous regions on the way is more than impressive. The roads twist over and around dry, orangey coloured rocky hills, daubed with green vegetation, which has managed to escape the heat so far; through gorges with sheer rock faces on either side. Village signs are shot full of holes in celebration of the birth of a child or just for sport. Locals sit in the shade on wooden chairs discussing life and the universe; the men often stripped down to their vests in an attempt to keep cool. Every bend in the road with an alarming drop seems to have a shrine in memory of someone who managed to misjudge it.





From the small southern town of Plakias, one can stock up with whatever supplies are needed before heading off round the bay to a smaller cosier beach. My personal favourite is Shinaria, whose beach is small stones instead of sand. Here the water is crystal clear and good for snorkeling. A little way off from the beach is a whitewashed restaurant with heavenly food. Forget looking at the menu and just ask the owner what he’s prepared today. It’ll be chicken, lamb or rabbit in a delicious wine sauce with chips; accompanied by the local wine and a parting obligatory shot of the local firewater—raki, which will leave you giggling on the beach in the late afternoon sun.

For the more intrepid visitor to Crete, there is always the Samarian Gorge, situated near the southern-west coast of the island. It is said to be Europe’s longest gorge and two million years in the making. This impressive and strenuous hike takes the walker about six hours, starting early in the morning, and covers a distance of eleven miles. The last part of the hike is along the rocky, river bottom through the “Portes”, (the gates) of the Samarian Gorge ending at the small town of Agia Roumeli. Here it is possible to eat and swim before heading out by ferry again.

Part of the beauty of the Greek lifestyle is that the pace of life is slower, allowing one to stop and stare. Whether lying on a beach, or a rooftop gazing at the stars, or eating out at one’s leisure with friends. Cretan food has become a gateway to the East, with its inclusion of Far Eastern influences, and has led to a wider variety in the Greek kitchen. Mezzes, a traditional dish, comprises of a lot of little plates of food (like tapas), hot and cold, meat, fish and vegetarian can all be enjoyed with absolutely no rush at one sitting.

As with most places in the world there is also an expatriate presence on Crete, who meets regularly for coffee mornings and lunches in small tavernas by the sea. There is the CIC (Cretan International Community of Chania) in Chania and the Rethymnon group, whose members I found to be very open and friendly.





First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)



Monday, 22 March 2010

Cucumber Time!





What does one do in the summer months, often referred to by the Dutch as ‘komkommer tijd’ (cucumber time)? 

Not much can be organized or done during this period as everyone is planning his or her holidays. If you have not already flown to foreign shores, or disappeared to the nearest lake with a good book for the afternoon, you could always join the exodus to one of the islands along the coast of the Netherlands for a week or two. There are five in total: Schiermonnikoog, Terschelling, Ameland. Vlieland and Texel. Each offer a diversity of nature, scenery and activities to appear to all.

Schiemonnikoog
This island can be reached from Lauwersoog in twenty-five minutes, and its size makes it perfect for a day visit. Cars of visitors are not allowed on the island, as it is a nature reserve so the main means of transport is the bicycle. These come in all sorts of shapes and sizes both for adults and children. The tandem is a regular sight and trailers can be filled with your baggage or even small children for quick transport around the island and down to the seashore.

Apart from the obvious attraction of the sea with its dunes and grasses, the natural beauty of this national park includes salt marshes as well as a variety of flora and fauna. There are numerous cafes, restaurants and pavilions, a lighthouse, and a bunker from the Second World War to be visited along the way.

Terschelling
Terschelling can be reached from Harlingen by boat and takes an hour and a half. This is somewhat bigger than Schiermonnikoog and is made up of a number of small villages all easily accessed via a connecting road system. The best way to get a good impression of what Terschelling has to offer is to walk from the Noordzee to the Waddenzee right across the island. Along the way you will see the natural dune formations and pass through the different ecosystems of the island (there are nine in total), which are homes to a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The beach is the widest of the Dutch coastline and in the whole of Western Europe.

Generally there are plenty of places to stay on the island unless you choose to visit around the time of the annual ‘Oerol’ Festival. During this time because of the festivals enormous popularity, most places are fully booked although some camping areas may have a few places available. 

Oerol this year is 10th – 19th June and has a nautical theme entitled ‘Geen zee te hoog’ (‘No sea too high’) and has to do with the bond between the islanders and navigation. During the festival the whole island becomes a stage and the backdrop for (street) theatre, cabaret, circuses, dance acts, and artistic creations. Tickets sales begin on the 8th and 9th of June on the island with half being withheld for sale during the festival itself. More information about Oerol can be found at: www.oerol.nl/index.html.


Ameland
To reach Ameland the boat goes from Holwerd and takes forty-five minutes. Used to belong to the royal family around the beginning of the 18-th century but since the early 19-th century has become part of the property of Friesland.

The island has 4 villages, a population of 3,500 and measures 25 kilometres in length and is 4 km at its widest point. Again interesting to explore it is rich in flora and fauna. One such area, known as the Nieuwlandsreid, is a marsh filled with unusual vegetation due to the fact that it is regularly flooded with salt water.

The natural history museum offers activities and information as well as an enormous aquarium filled with a diversity of fish and shellfish whose natural habitat is the Noord- en Waddenzee.

Vlieland
This island can be reached by boat from Harlingen and takes one and a half hours. This island also has a no car policy for non-residents, the bicycle again being the main means of getting around the island.

The tourist office has all the infomation about what there is to see and do on Vlieland and offers a variety of different excursions around the island. There is an aquarium which is filled with sea life native to the area, but there is also a special aquarium filled with rays and dog sharks that can be stroked if you dare!

Other attractions for all ages include the ‘Kabouterbos’ (‘Gnome wood’), ‘Jutterszolder’, (‘Beachcombers attic’) filled with all kinds of objects that have washed up on the seashore, and a ‘Wrakvondstenzolder’, (‘Shipwreck attic’) exhibiting objects retrieved by divers from Northsea shipwrecks.

Texel
Texel is the biggest and most diverse of the ‘waddeneilanden’ (‘wadden islands’) and can be reached by boat from Den Helder in twenty minutes, and is home to large herds of sheep and birds

On Texel, EcoMare can be found in the center of the National Park ‘Duinen van Texel’ (‘Dunes of Texel’). This comprises of a visitor’s center, a center for education about nature and the environment, a museum, a crèche for sea lions, and a bird sanctuary. There is also information available about the North Sea, the Wadden area, nature on Texel and the influence of man’s presence on all this. The dune park of 70-hectares has a number of different walks marked out, which can also be done as part of a guided tour, giving the visitor a good idea of the diversity of plant life on the island.


More information about the islands and Holland: HERE


First published in the Connections magazine #8 July 2005 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)