Wednesday 28 April 2010

Crete the Final Frontier



I had absolutely no qualms about leaving behind what must have been one of the wettest Augusts on record for a two-week holiday on the island of Crete in Greece.

My friends Kate and Luc, who emigrated there a couple of years ago, picked me up at the hot and chaotic airport of Heraklion and we sped off in their jeep in a westerly direction to Rethymnon, situated on the northern coast of the island—cans of ice-cold beer in hand.

It’s fifteen years since my last visit to Crete, and of course during this time there has been a lot of change and restoration. As a tourist attraction Rethymnon manages to cater for the wishes of its visitors without compromising its customs and traditions. The old town of Rethymnon for example, has still retained its charm, with the local butchers, bakers, and corner shop all still in existence. This is no mean feat in a day and age of the larger supermarket and mass production breathing down their necks.

Historically, Crete and particularly Rethymnon has a broad history dating back as far as the Neolithic period. Modern day Crete only became part of Greece as late as 1913, and its inhabitants played a very important part, during the Second World War, in thwarting the Nazi occupation. Rethymnon boasts a Venetian Fortezza, which is well worth a look and gives a magnificent view of Rethymnon and the surrounding area. Within its walls it has a small church and a mosque dating back to 1645.

The south coast of the island is easily accessed by moped, motorbike or car. Driving through the mountainous regions on the way is more than impressive. The roads twist over and around dry, orangey coloured rocky hills, daubed with green vegetation, which has managed to escape the heat so far; through gorges with sheer rock faces on either side. Village signs are shot full of holes in celebration of the birth of a child or just for sport. Locals sit in the shade on wooden chairs discussing life and the universe; the men often stripped down to their vests in an attempt to keep cool. Every bend in the road with an alarming drop seems to have a shrine in memory of someone who managed to misjudge it.





From the small southern town of Plakias, one can stock up with whatever supplies are needed before heading off round the bay to a smaller cosier beach. My personal favourite is Shinaria, whose beach is small stones instead of sand. Here the water is crystal clear and good for snorkeling. A little way off from the beach is a whitewashed restaurant with heavenly food. Forget looking at the menu and just ask the owner what he’s prepared today. It’ll be chicken, lamb or rabbit in a delicious wine sauce with chips; accompanied by the local wine and a parting obligatory shot of the local firewater—raki, which will leave you giggling on the beach in the late afternoon sun.

For the more intrepid visitor to Crete, there is always the Samarian Gorge, situated near the southern-west coast of the island. It is said to be Europe’s longest gorge and two million years in the making. This impressive and strenuous hike takes the walker about six hours, starting early in the morning, and covers a distance of eleven miles. The last part of the hike is along the rocky, river bottom through the “Portes”, (the gates) of the Samarian Gorge ending at the small town of Agia Roumeli. Here it is possible to eat and swim before heading out by ferry again.

Part of the beauty of the Greek lifestyle is that the pace of life is slower, allowing one to stop and stare. Whether lying on a beach, or a rooftop gazing at the stars, or eating out at one’s leisure with friends. Cretan food has become a gateway to the East, with its inclusion of Far Eastern influences, and has led to a wider variety in the Greek kitchen. Mezzes, a traditional dish, comprises of a lot of little plates of food (like tapas), hot and cold, meat, fish and vegetarian can all be enjoyed with absolutely no rush at one sitting.

As with most places in the world there is also an expatriate presence on Crete, who meets regularly for coffee mornings and lunches in small tavernas by the sea. There is the CIC (Cretan International Community of Chania) in Chania and the Rethymnon group, whose members I found to be very open and friendly.





First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)



The Body Beautiful With Mandy Kierans




Having always been interested in make-up and its application to transform the human face or body, Mandy Kierans studied special effects and make up for TV and Film, in Dublin. This led to a position as assistant make-up artist for a production company, Paradox Pictures in England and her love of decorating the human body.

As her reputation grew, by word of mouth, she was often sort after in her field. Giving workshops to under privileged children; doing make-up and hair for television, as well as films and children’s TV programmes. She did the special effects make-up for the crowd scenes in the film ‘Saving Private Ryan’, directed by Steven Spielberg, as well as the make-up for the crowd scenes in the film ‘All for Love’, starring Richard E. Grant and Miranda Richardson. A lucrative four-year contract with Schwarzkopf hair products meant that she created the make-up design for all the Schwarzkopf events (fashion shows, TV adverts and magazine spreads) held in Ireland and England during this period.

Her inspiration comes mainly from the ethereal world of angels and fairies coupled with the elements of earth, wind and fire. She likes to convey beauty in her work and colours are always bright. So much so that when she was learning how to reproduce, wounds, scars and bruises at college, her teacher found it strange that even in the most gruesome wound, she had incorporated glitters! For private commissions, when’ decorating’, a person for a party, the inspiration for her design comes not only from her interaction with that person but in finding out what their favourite colour, drink, or time of the year is. In such a way she comes upon a design that is unique to that person.

As well as make-up Mandy uses other materials to enhance her creations such as papier-mâché, foam latex, and hair by a process known as ‘knotting’, where the hair is painstakingly attached to gauze with a crochet-like hook implement, hair by hair. One creation, a body painting of a swan incorporated flowers and animatronics wings that threw confetti and glitters into the air every time they moved.

Mandy Kierans was born and bred in Droghead, Ireland but moved to Groningen in 2002 to live with her Dutch boyfriend, who she met whilst on holiday on the island of Crete. Since moving permanently to Groningen she has taken part in various events, workshops and festivals, where her body painting skills have been enthusiastically received.

For the future, Mandy would like to go into party planning, for anyone wanting to throw a fabulous party. She would manage and market the event, organize the entertainment, catering, right down to the smaller details, such as hair and makeup for guest or entertainer.






First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)

The Synagogue





As far back as 1756 there has been a Synagogue for the Jewish population in the centre of Groningen, on the corner of the Gedempte Zuiderdiep and the modern day Folkingestraat. The street was, however, then known as the Volteringstraat, and shortly afterwards the Kleine Folkingestraat.


With the nineteenth century the Jewish population grew and became a more influential force in the economic life of Groningen. This led to the construction of the larger and more prominent present day Synagogue in 1906, designed by architect Tjeerd Kuipers. The Synagogue is of neo-Byzantine style with neo-Moorish elements. The interior windowsills and tiled walls show Art Nouveau influences, and the only Jewish influence in the building can be seen in the colonnades, which may well have been inspired by the Synagogue of Toledo.


After the Second World War in 1952, although unscathed by it, the Synagogue was sold and housed a laundry, which later became a dry cleaning plant, before finally becoming a church and assembly hall for the Apostolic Fellowship. It wasn’t until 1973 that the ‘Stichting Folkingestraat Synagogue’, was set up with the aim of restoring it to its former glory, which lasted from 1981-2. After this it was once again used as a synagogue, part-time.


Today the Synagogue is not only a place of Jewish worship but is also used for concerts and exhibitions. It includes a permanent exhibition on the history of the Jewish people, particularly those who were resident in Groningen, and uses the history of five prominent Jewish families in Groningen at the time.




First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)




The Animal Ambulance






For the many pet owners in and around Groningen a missing cat, dog, or even rabbit can be quite a worry. Searching, putting up flyers and patiently waiting doesn’t often end with the return of that soft, faithful friend. There is another option, however, and that is to ring the Dierenambulance (Animal Ambulance).

Your animal may well have been picked up, if reported as a stray in some other neighbourhood, alternatively you can file a missing animal report with them. They take great care to include as many details as possible about the animal, where and when it was last seen, as well as any photographs you can supply them with for easier identification. When your pet reappears you will be informed by phone. In the sad case that the animal is not alive you will be called in to identify your pet and be given time to say goodbye, in a room specially set aside for that purpose. After that you will be helped with arrangements for burial or cremation.

In the case that the Animal Ambulance picks up an animal that has been hit by a car and its wounds are of a particularly serious nature, it will be immediately taken to the nearest vet.

Apart from domestic animals the Animal Ambulance also picks up and helps any other injured wild animals as well. In the case of birds, they are taken directly to Het Hemelrijk, a bird sanctuary on the edge of Groningen, where they are looked after until healthy enough to fend for themselves again.

The Vereniging Dierenambulance Groningen (The Association Animal Ambulance) was set up in 1979 with the idea of helping sick and wounded animals. It is open 7 days a week, 24 hours a day. The employees (numbering 50 in total) are mainly volunteers with a love for animals and who are prepared to give 20 hours a week of their time to helping animals. Before beginning each volunteer goes through an intensive training and takes a First Aid course for animals in order to be able to give immediate on site relief when necessary

The Animal Ambulance’s website: Dierenambulance (in Dutch) has information about the work they do, lost and found animals, and first aid solutions. Take a look at their promotion to get more of an idea.

For funding the Animal Ambulance rely on subsidies from the Council of Groningen, but also receive help from the private sector (for example Century Auto Groep, and the ABN Amro). Otherwise, they receive annual donations from individuals as well as charitable donations from groups and schools.

So, if you are looking for a worthwhile cause to support. The Animal Ambulance is a good choice. More info here



First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)

Featured City - Emmen




Emmen can be found to the north-east of The Netherlands. A fusion of several small farming and peat-harvesting communities and which date back to the Middle Ages, in the province of Drenthe

With 108,000 residents it is the most highly populated city in the area. It also accommodates the highest concentration of industry in the northern Netherlands with over 4,500 businesses. Emmen also devotes the highest number of hectares to glasshouse horticulture of any other municipality. The Schoonebeek gas fields are very close and the textile and electronic sectors are well represented.

Emmen is also both nationally and internationally renowned as an open, green city. An abundance of room has meant that with the use of clever landscaping the suburban areas border on heather covered land, sand dunes and woodland. Saxon farms and nine ancients’ graves show just how long this area has been inhabited.





The zoo, Wildlands (formerly known as Dierenpark Emmen), was built in 1935 and totally renewed in 2016. It has a large collection of animals that live in a carefully reconstructed habitat according to vegetation, climate and elevation. The oldest animal in the zoo is an elephant, Annnabel, who arrived at the zoo forty years ago at the age of two. The zoo attracts 1.5 million visitors every year and is open all year round. For more information on Wildlands: here https://www.wildlands.nl

The centre of Emmen is lively and filled with modern and diverse shopping areas as well as cafés and restaurants.

Culturally, Emmen also offers theatre, exhibitions and festivals for visitors. There is also a walk or cycle route, that with the guide book 'Beelden in Emmen' (Images in Emmen) in hand, takes the visitor past all the art works, and statues around the city. The guide is available from the VVV Emmen (tourist information).







First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)



Connections Magazine - Autumn #13 2006



Cover Connections Autumn issue

Second Connections cover, this time sporting a detachable badge to celebrate 10 years of Connect International. I wonder if there are any still kicking around out there or can they be found amongst the toys of some kids?







First published in the Connections magazine #13 Autumn 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)




Connections Magazine - Summer #12 2006



Cover Connections Summer issue

The Connections has made a logical transition from a newsletter to a magazine. 
This means that each quarter we have to brainstorm a cover and articles are now on the inside pages.


First published in the Connections magazine #12 Summer 2006 

View all issues of Connections HERE (editor, designer, illustrator: 2006-2013)